December 13, 2006
How to Fix a Pinhole Leak in Your Pipes
[Update: Since publishing this, I've found that this solution is less than perfect. The epoxy I used tends to melt if used on hot water pipes. I am looking to see if I can find an epoxy that can withstand high heat. In the mean time, this may not be the best solution.]
We've recently had some problems with our baseboard heating system; the pipes that carry the water throughout the house are made of an old material called bundyweld, which is no longer used, as it tends to rust and leak. Our is almost 60 years old, and has started leaking periodically. We've gotten some of the pipe replaced, but not all, and in the mean time, I've developed a pretty good system for plugging these leaks until we can pony up the dough for the big project of replacing the entire system with copper pipe.
First thing is: locate the leak. A pinhole leak usually shoots water in a stream, so look around the pipe for a stream of water, but be careful, as the water will likely be very hot.
Once you've found the leak, shut off the water to the house at the water main. Then, open a faucet somewhere in your house to relieve the pressure from the system (this is an essential step; if you don't do this, later on when you're putting on the epoxy to plug the leak, the pressure in the system will cause the epoxy to bubble and you'll be back at square one).
To plug the leak, I use epoxy; this is a glue-like substance that is about as strong as PVC when it cures. You can find many different kinds at Home Depot, I've been using the Loctite brand (for some reason I've been using the marine epoxy, which is supposed to be able to cure under water; I don't really think it's necessary though. Any old epoxy should be fine).
Take some sandpaper and buff the location of the leak; this will create a better surface for the epoxy to adhere to. Then, mix your epoxy and spread it over the leak. You'll need to wait several hours (even though it says it sets in 50 minutes, you'll want to wait at least 3-4 hours, possibly more; if you turn the water back on too soon, and the epoxy is not hard enough, the pressure will punch a hole right through and you'll be back at square one, again).
And that's it, no need to call a plumber! Make sure to pick up any standing water with a wet/dry vacuum, and possibly bring in a dehumidifier to suck up any excess moisture (to prevent the growth of mold).
And hopefully the next time it happens, it won't be somewhere that the water will actually cause damage!
Posted by: peninah at December 13, 2006 9:15 AMGood thing you don't ask your neighbor for plumming advice
Posted by: Ari G at December 13, 2006 10:09 AMyour heating piping is a closed loop and is not connected to your drinking/shower piping.
You have hot water to drink and shower with coming from your water heater. that water is used and then goes down the drain never to be seen again.
your heating water that comes through your baseboard units is a closed loop and is much hoter than the other loop. the water is heated in your boiler and goes out through the house and then comes back to the boiler.
in case of leaks or system draining, there is an input from the main water line into your boiler to add more water to the system, but that is not used on a regular basis.
so . . . the valve you really need to shut is the one where the pipe leaves your boiler.
Posted by: SR at December 13, 2006 2:59 PMSR: Not all systems have a shutoff valve after the boiler; we only recently had one installed. But even if that is shut off, you STILL need to relieve pressure from the system, and the best way to do that is to shut the water off at the main and open a faucet.
Also, some systems have what is called a summer/winter hookup, in which case the boiler feeds hot water to the hot water heater.
Posted by: Greg at December 13, 2006 3:43 PMI never heard of the "summer/winter hookup" you mention, but that would essentially combine the loops into one and then you would have to relieve the pressure.
I would be really surprised if you didn't have a shut off after the boiler. It's there so you can isolate the boiler or parts of the piping for servicing.
Posted by: SR at December 13, 2006 4:22 PMWe used to have a summer/winter hookup; we recently replaced our boiler and converted to a standard system. Before we got the new system, we did not have a shut off valve that shut off just our baseboard loop; we could shut off what came out of the boiler, but then we had no hot water either, as nothing fed the hot water heater. We now have a shut off on the pipe leaving the boiler, but we still need to open a faucet to relieve the pressure on the entire system.
Posted by: Greg at December 13, 2006 4:27 PMI went to your blog this morning and saw that there was a new post. "Yay!" I thought. But then I looked at the screen and behold, there was just a series of randomly typed letters, like those old blog or Publisher templates. Made no sense. Looks like "fgkjs fjoewrw9 pinhole rrfns 4fh904 wfj39uf e349uf jkf$#$ $#gufd". I refreshed the page to no avail. I rebooted to no avail. I did a complete virus scan, and all I see is this gibberish. My eyes hurt. I have a headache now. I think the problem is on your end. I hope you can't find the problem and repair it soon so that your posts are legible.
P.S. Tell Potemkin I'm JOKING, so that he doesn't curse me.
Posted by: yehupitz at December 13, 2006 9:45 PMOOPS. I meant I hope you CAN repair it.
Posted by: yehupitz at December 13, 2006 9:48 PMYehupitz: I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. Either your computer is messed up, or you're trying to tell me to write about other stuff other than plumbing. If it's the former, try rebooting; if it's the latter, well, try rebooting.
Posted by: Greg at December 14, 2006 1:05 AM
